We’ve been lucky enough to spend the last week in the stunning historic town of Nozawa Onsen (more on that in an upcoming post!) Nozawa may be best known to most westerners as an incredible snow resort, but it started out as an onsen town & has stunning public hot spring baths dotted throughout the village. Anyone who has skied here can attest to how therapeutic an onsen is after a day on the hill. Onsen are as Japanese as sushi - & as with all things Japanese, there are protocols to be followed.

So, what is an Onsen?

Onsen are hot spring baths where the Japanese have for centuries relaxed in the restorative hot mineral water. They are a huge part of life in Japan & are almost sacred in terms of Japanese culture – many locals base their vacations around an onsen experience, taking their bathing very seriously, & it’s best to be aware of the rules so as not to offend.

Where do you find an Onsen?

Many hotels will have onsen on site – these are often a destination in their own right and some allow non-guests to use the facilities as well (for a fee). Ski resorts often offer onsen too for a soak after a day of skiing or snowboarding. Then there are public onsen which anyone can visit.

Here are a few things to be aware of when visiting an onsen for the first time.

Birthday suit

The first thing to know about onsen-ing is it is done entirely in the nude – no bathing suits allowed. And while small towels may be carried for modesty, they should never be placed into the onsen water.

Never fear, there are separate onsen for men & women &, while you might feel a tiny bit uncomfortable at first, trust us when we say the magic of the hot springs will have you overcome any awkwardness pretty swiftly.

If you are a little shy, then consider visiting in the morning when it tends to be far quieter (plus, it’s a great way to prepare for a day on the mountain). If you really can’t cope with public nudity, consider booking a private onsen which many hotels offer.

Ink

This brings us to the subject of tattoos.

Historically, only members of members of the yakuza (Japanese mafia) had tattoos. As a result, people with tattoos have generally been banned from bath houses.

In ski areas frequented by large numbers of foreign visitors, attitudes have softened somewhat towards tattoos, & at some onsen you won’t have issues provided you are discrete (this very much depends on the size & location of said ink).

That said, most onsen have very strict rules about tattoos & you may be asked to leave if you have visible ink. If in doubt, ask at the front desk before onsen-ing – or think about booking a private onsen. We can also provide inked clients with special tattoo seals upon request.

The vibe

An onsen is a place of tranquil relaxation. Children are allowed when accompanied by an adult, but they do need to be calm & quiet while they are there. (For the comfort of all guests, only toilet-trained children should visit the onsen).

Guests of any age are expected to go about their onsen as quietly as possible so as not to disturb others. Of course, conversation is fine but should be done quietly.

 

How to Onsen

 The good news is that the rules of onsen are universal & apply throughout Japan.

Arrival

• First step – get undressed. There is a change area where you can disrobe before you enter the washing area. Baskets or lockers are provided for your clothes & toiletries (you will have already left your shoes at the entrance).

• If you have valuables, there are often small safes or lockers provided – this is also a good place to store your phone which is not allowed in the wash area (for obvious reasons).

• When you arrived at your ryokan/hotel or the onsen, you likely received a couple of towels (if not – you will find them in the changing area), one to dry yourself with & another much smaller one (the onsen towel) to take with you into the wash area.

• The onsen towel serves a couple of important functions, it can be used as a modesty towel, as a cloth for washing when in the shower area, & it is used as a cooling mechanism when in the hot onsen – this is done by placing in on your head - it can also be used to dry yourself before heading into the change areas.

• Super important – never, ever put this towel in the onsen.

Washing

• Having disrobed, you will head into the wash area. Take any personal toiletries with you – don’t forget the onsen towel.

• There will generally be some toiletries provided – body soap, shampoo & conditioner are the standard.

• The wash area consists of ‘bays’ where you sit & wash yourself thoroughly using a handheld shower before you head into the onsen.

• The form is to stay seated while you do this, & it is generally considered impolite if you stand up to wash yourself. It’s also important not to leave the water running during the washing process – the shower is just used for rinsing off soap after you have washed. Be careful not to splash others while rinsing.

• You’ll also find a bucket to fill with water & rinse yourself as part of your ablutions.

• Once clean, you can drop your toiletries back at your basket & then head to the healing waters of the onsen – keep your onsen towel with you.

• Depending on the onsen there may be both indoor & outdoor baths. The outdoor baths (rotenburo) are especially magical if it is snowing.

Onsen Time

• Get into the water slowly, immerse yourself & take in your surroundings while your body soaks up the healing properties of the minerals.

• If there with friends, you can share stories of the day’s amazing turns but do keep the volume low so as not to disturb others.

• If you’re lucky there may be multiple onsen to try out.

• Once done, head back to the wash area, where you should give yourself a quick rinse (again, seated) to remove any salts or minerals.

• Before you head back into the dressing area give yourself a quick wipe down with your onsen towel to make sure you aren’t dripping water in the change area.

• There should be a water station to grab a cup of cold water, which is highly recommended as the heat from the baths can make you feel light-headed.

• Once done drying yourself using your (large) towel & getting dressed, grab your belongings & head out feeling totally rejuvenated.

Other things to remember:

• It’s an unwritten rule to keep your eyes at eye level or above.

• Never make comments or references to others – most Japanese understand English even if they aren’t comfortable speaking it.

• No phones – this goes without saying (we think).

• No running, shouting, or jumping into the onsen – they are a place of tranquillity.

• Don’t put anything in the onsen (other than yourself).

• Don’t drink the onsen water – it is high in minerals & can leave you with a very upset stomach.

• Try to lower your voice as much as possible.

• No alcohol – save this for after your onsen.

• Leave things as you found them – put stools & buckets back in their places & give them a rinse.

• Children should be supervised at all times.

• Respect other bathers.

While it sounds like a lot to remember, most of these are common sense & reflect what you would expect from others. If in doubt, follow what the locals are doing, & you can’t go wrong.

The most important thing is to enjoy the onsen & rejuvenate, ready for the following day on the mountain.

Happy onsen-ing.

Wishing you Peace, Love & Powder Days.❄️